Splash Down and Departure Day

Tweed returned to the water on Thursday, 29 January, looking a whole lot nicer than when she arrived at Boat Lagoon on 29 December. After a night spent in the marina checking that the engine was working properly and getting the fridge cooled down again, we departed Boat Lagoon on the high tide at midday on 30 January.





Again, we had to navigate out through the mangroves and then the narrow channel through the mudflats before we were in safe water. The snapshot from the chart shows our track in and out and how it in no way resembles what has been charted!!

We used a pilot boat to lead us out through the mangroves...

...and then along the channel markers.



After a night at Ko Rang Yai we sailed across to Ko Phi Phi Don before sailing south once more.


All Work and No Play....

During the month of January we found at least two occasions to have time off to play. The first was on January 19 when Pam celebrated another birthday - but who's telling how many? A group of 16 people met at Nai Yang Seafood Restaurant for a meal and another good night together. It was also a night of goodbyes as most were heading either west or south and would perhaps never meet up again. But that's the cruising lifestyle - meeting and making new friends and saying goodbye to old ones.






The second was on 26 January when being good Aussies we had an Australia Day barbecue at home. Along with Ley and Neil, we were joined by Bryce and Martha (Kiwi and American) from the yacht Silver Fern and neighbours from across the road, Brian, Kaew and children, and A, from next door plus all four of her dogs. We all enjoyed food in abundance which was topped off by Ley's delicious pavlova.

A New Year and Almost a New Boat

With Christmas over it was time to prepare for our haulout at Boat Lagoon on 29 December. We sailed over to Ko Rang, a small island a few miles from the mouth of the channel through the mud and mangroves which led into the marina. We anchored here for two nights, enjoying being at anchor for what would be the last time for maybe two weeks but probably four. Boat Lagoon is depth-challenged and with our draft of 2.2 metres we could only enter on a tide of 2.7 metres or more. Our first opportunity would be the 29 December. As novices at entering the meandering, mud-surrounded channel, we requested a pilot and he duly arrived at 10:00 at the first of the channel markers. Pam took the wheel while the pilot calmly called out when to make any turns and then Jon took over to take us through the mangroves. It was disconcerting stuff to see the depth sounder showing nothing under the keel but the pilot assured us that there were no rocks or sand beneath only slippery mud so we wouldn't get stuck!! Well, he was right and despite a bit of a slide as we entered the mangroves we arrived at the lift-out berth and Tweed was expertly lifted from the water. After a hose down with the high pressure hose, she was then transported to a section of the hardstand and propped up into position where she was very secure. Jon now spent his time preparing the engine for removal as he had to replace the rear oil seal and it was impossible to do it in situ.

Tweed being put in position at Boat Lagoon

We were met by friends Neil and Ley from Crystal Blues. They also have their boat on the hardstand where they are doing a re-fit over a six-month period. They have rented a 3-bedroom house and had kindly invited us to use the ‘spare’ room. It was holiday time though, so we had plenty of time to prepare as well as think about New Year's Eve. Kris and David from Taipan had invited us to spend the evening with them at Patong Beach but a last minute plan changed the location to Panwa Bali, tucked into the eastern corner of Ao Chalong. The reason: An uncomfortable swell was running on the west coast of Phuket where Patong is located and, as Kris had her elderly parents visiting, it was not considered safe. We and our friends Ley and Neil thought this was a good decision and duly arrived about 7:30 p.m. with no parking problems and a calm anchorage. Neil was kept busy talking with Edna, Kris's mum, who had the same surname before marriage and they were keen to work out if they were related. We all enjoyed the food, the drink, the fireworks and the company. It was an excellent night and before we knew it, it was well past midnight and time for us to go home.


Jon's workshop

The new year period was spent removing six large bronze fairlead fittings, unfastening the whisker cables from the bow sprit, removing the teak from the boomkin, pulling cables back inside the boat which ran to the wind generator, the GPS, the solar panels, the stern navigation light and the barbecue light. Everything attached or running through the teak had to be removed before the workers arrived. A forklift arrived on 2 January to remove the engine and the 4 January soon rolled round when the workers came back from their breaks but our work didn't start in earnest until the next day. Since then it has been all go and now Tweed is looking very nice indeed. The new teak along the bulwarks is finished and looks fabulous; the cockpit teak seats and cockpit sole (floor) have been freshly sanded; a roller door has been made for the cupboard which housed the old microwave; and the hull below waterline has been stripped of layers anti-fouling that have accumulated over who knows how many years. Mali's team of carpenters from Yachts Repair Company have finished and we are very pleased with the results. The bottom is now having a rest before having a barrier coating applied and then the anti-foul. Jon has replaced the engine rear oil seal and the engine is ready to be hoisted back aboard. The engine is located beneath an island galley bench and entailed removing the granite-topped bench complete with double sinks and taps, then hoisting the engine out through the coach-roof via the large hole left when the butterfly hatches were lifted off.

Old Teak Removed From Below Caprail and Bottom Scrubbed

Pam has been kept busy either tidying up after Jon, cleaning numerous bolts and nuts, or sanding and varnishing various bits of portable teak such as storm boards, boomkin, timber-framed hatch screens, and fridge lid, as well as some pine oars. Next job will be the roller door.

Teak work not quite finished yet

And Now It Is Christmas

The celebrations began with Carols by Candlelight aboard More Magic that evening, Christmas Eve. Daun was right into Christmas with all the trimmings and we had a great night eating, drinking and singing. Christmas Day began at 9:00 a.m. with breakfast aboard Taipan before the gift giving. After that feast we all retired to our respective boats to prepare for dinner on the shore at 6:00 p.m. David and his father in law, Colin, had been ashore the day before and with help from a couple of locals had built a table from tree branches and palm fronds. We all arrived with our chairs and dinner began with prawn salad followed by roast turkey, roast duck, roast vegetables, and baked ham, and then finished with Christmas pudding and brandy sauce. All the girls had done a fantastic job with the food!! The only downside was that a thunderstorm slowly passed to the north drizzling on us most of the way through our meal and by the time we had finished we were almost drenched through!!! Not cold though and a fire built nearby soon dried us all off. It was a memorable day.

Serious business - a game of petanque on Boxing Day

That's The Plan

Our plans to complete a bit of shopping in Langkawi, refuel and depart all went smoothly and we departed Telaga on Langkawi Island on 21 December with just 4 days to get to our Christmas Day rendezvous. Day One was an easy passage just 25 miles to the east where we anchored at Ko Adang, part of the Butang Group of islands and in Thai waters. We had good downwind sailing, with the anchor down about 3:30 p.m. Right... time to get out the mangoes and get busy with the chutney. Wrong... a knock on the hull and a couple of cruisers interested in our boat, a Hans Christian 43, as one of them had recently purchased one but smaller in length, were keen to chat. Nevermind the chutney, as we invited them aboard to ohhhhh and ahhhh. They departed to join the rest of their families on the beach for a bbq to which we were invited but the chutney took priority. This would be part of the Christmas gift giving and now thoughts of "why didn't I just buy something in Langkawi" came to the fore but too late now. The chutney looked and tasted good.

Day Two started off with good winds and good sailing but it was only a couple of hours before the wind dropped off and we were motoring our way towards Ko Rok Nok. Calm seas meant out with the sugar, flour and butter and soon the shortbread was under way. It was a warm day though and working with something made from a high percentage of butter proved very challenging. Nevermind, most of it was done before it was time to prepare for entering the anchorage - the rest could wait in the fridge for another day. It was our first approach to Rok Nok from the south and although we had picked up a mooring here in August and thought we knew the place we approached the south side of the island a bit too close and soon it was knock rock as we lightly scraped a bit of rock in the reef strewn water!!! Turn to starboard says Pam, no, port says Jon and luckily he was at the wheel and he was right and we were soon in clear water and out of danger. A big sigh of relief and soon we were aboard Silver Fern for sundowners in the flat waters.

Flat waters, but not for long. Within an hour the wind picked up from the north east and we were anchored just outside the wind shadow of the island. It gusted all night from 5 to 20 knots resulting in disturbed sleep, especially as the anchor chain scraped against some rock. We left the anchorage as soon as it was light enough to see and once we had cleared the island set our course for Ko Phi Phi Don. This proved to be a great day with good sailing all the way and we arrived in the anchorage just after 2:30 p.m. We had a swim and then decided to go ashore to buy some fresh fruit and then had an early dinner before returning to the boat to sleep.


Phi Phi Don


Day Three. It was now the 24 December so we decided on a quick trip ashore again to top up our fresh vegetables to last us over Christmas. Although very touristy, Ko Phi Phi Don has a large population of locals who work on the island so there were at least three outlets we knew of selling excellent fresh produce - much better than Langkawi - which must be brought from the mainland every day. We soon had what we needed and were back at Tweed and getting the anchor up. We had a reasonable sail for a while and only had a couple of paired trawlers to keep clear of. We then had to motor sail north along the western side of Ko Yao Yai to our anchorage just south of the northwest tip where we were meeting with Taipan, More Magic and Jaraman for Christmas celebrations.

Buying fresh prawns direct from the catchers

The End of the Year is Nigh... sigh...

We are starting to feel that we could sail the route between Langkawi and Phuket blindfolded!! After several weeks back in Phuket we suddenly discovered that doing a visa run to the Thai/Burmese border by road would no longer give us another 30 days to enjoy Thailand as well as haul out for necessary boat work. Instead we would receive only 15 days. We usually arrive in Thailand with a 60-day visa which may be extended to 90 days. However, this time we didn’t deem it necessary as we proposed to do one visa run and then leave for the Andaman Islands. Oh, well, the best laid plans...

The good news though is that during our short stay in Thailand, most of the varnishing has been redone on Tweed’s teakwork and she is looking a bit spiffier than when we left in August. As well as spending time anchored off Yacht Haven Marina, where we were able to catch up with cruising buddies, we also anchored for a few nights at Panwa Bali in Chalong Bay where we had good protection from the prevailing constant gusty north easterly winds. We were able to swim and go ashore for a meal if we wanted where there are several local style restaurants serving great Thai food.

Large Thai Fishing Vessel

So here we are back in Langkawi once more. This seemed to be the simplest solution – sail to Langkawi and check in to Malaysia, have a day of shopping and refuelling, then check out and sail back to Phuket in time for Christmas (we hope). Our passage this time took in Ko Phi Phi Don (caught one bonito on the way), Ko Muk (caught another bonito) and Ko Tarutao (caught another 80cm mackerel, so the average is improving), arriving in Telaga on Thursday 18 December.

In the waters between Ko Muk and Ko Tarutao there are literally thousands of fish traps marked with a float and a coloured flag. A constant watch has to be maintained to avoid the possibility of getting the rope caught in the propeller or, worse still, catching the fishing lure on one. We have done this twice and each time have been able to turn the boat round and unhook it before losing our gear.

Steering clear of another fishing float

With one week to Christmas Day we have our time cut out as Friday in Langkawi is their ‘weekend’ and the shops we need to get to are closed. The plan is to refuel on Friday, hire a car on Saturday and leave on Sunday which should see us back in Thailand by the 24 December.

Off the Dock and Onto the Hook

Tuesday 5 August found us finally being able to clear customs, immigration and port authorities so that we could leave Thailand and sail back south to Langkawi. We had managed to get a fair bit of work done to get Tweed almost back to normal but we’d done enough to allow for safe passage making. We still had gear to unload from storage and stow back aboard – outboard engine, inflatable dinghy, jerry cans, etc. etc. and although we planned to leave Wednesday afternoon we suddenly discovered that the best time to leave the marina was in the morning!! Too late, so another night in the marina - we needed to leave when the tide was up but before it started to flow too strongly when it would be very difficult to get off the dock.

So, it was on Thursday that we were able to untie our dock lines and leave the marina for Ao Po, an anchorage about 10 nautical miles or 20 kilometres down the channel from Yacht Haven. We were looking forward to this passage as we were still in the SW monsoon season which would allow us to stay in some different anchorages along our route. Ao Po proved to be very good holding in thick mud as it took about half an hour to wash the mud off the chain and anchor as they came up off the bottom the next morning. It had been a bit gusty during the night so the anchor had really bitten in.

Our intention was to go around the northern end of Ko Yao Noi as there is a bay with good protection from the SW there but as we approached around lunchtime we decided to continue on ‘just a bit further’. Hmmmm, well the first anchorage we saw had one boat in it which seemed to be doing a bit of rolling so on we went to Ko Hong (Krabi) which we knew had moorings on the northern side. This was really tempting fate because as we ventured further south the wind came further to the west and then northwest putting that anchorage out of the question. The wind had also strengthened slightly so we were able to have a reasonable sail down towards the Krabi area and to Ko Dam Khwan which, as the day was now progressing into late afternoon, we hoped would offer enough protection from the gusty wind. Suffice it to say that plans for a leisurely 15NM leg for the day ended in a 35NM leg in a very rolly anchorage, tied to a mooring buoy which bumped along the hull all night long as the wind held us one way and the tide pushed us forward over the mooring line!!

Ko Dam Khwan or Chicken Island

We were out of there as soon as it was light enough and made our way southwards towards Ko Phi Phi Don through several thunderstorms and a couple of heavy showers. By 10.30 the weather had cleared to the east and we dropped anchor in the lee of Phi Phi. It was an excellent anchorage in clear water over sand where we were able to get in some swimming and relax a bit.

We said goodbye to Phi Phi Don and continued south to Ko Rok Nok. As the weather was now a bit more settled, Jon rigged up one of the boat rods using some new gear bought at Chalong in Phuket. The saleswoman assured us that if we bought a particular aeroplane-shaped wooden ‘teaser’ and used it with the small squid lures we would catch a tuna. Jon tied on the aeroplane and then on opening the packet of squid lures to get one out, we discovered it was actually a set of six along one line. So we secured that on behind the aeroplane and let the line out to troll behind us. Within a few minutes, the drag went off and Jon wound in a fish – a 33cm mackerel tuna or bonito. We re-set the line, cleaned the fish up for lunch and then off went the drag again. This time, however, not one fish but four!! We were ecstatic as we hadn’t caught a fish for so long and now we had five in less than an hour.

On to the hook and out of the water!

With a thunderstorm threatening we reached Rok Nok where two islands wrap around to make a well protected anchorage with moorings available. We decided a mooring would be a good idea as on raising the anchor that morning Jon had noticed smoke coming from one of the anchor winch cables. Being on a mooring, he was able to clean and re-join the terminal and ensure the winch was in good working order before using it again. So, the saying about cruising just being a euphemism for maintaining your boat in exotic locations is exactly that a lot of the time. We stayed two nights so we managed to get in a few more maintenance jobs as well as some beach walks and snorkelling in the clear water.

Ko Phetra was our next destination, about 28 NM away, and without much wind it was another day of motoring. We anchored in the lee of the island on the eastern side in relatively shallow water about 4 metres deep. Ko Phetra is a limestone ridge about 4 NM long and a quarter of a NM wide and covered in rainforest with a small beach on the northern end. It was while here that we noticed a local longtail fishing boat out to the east of us. The fishermen aboard seemed to be waving a black flag but we assumed they were just laying nets or floats. However, after about an hour Jon decided that they were actually waving. Shortly after, a longtail came along close to the island so we managed to get their attention and they changed direction towards us. As they approached one of the fishermen opened the freezer box and pulled out a fish thinking we wanted to buy fish from them. Jon managed to convey to them that another boat was in difficulty and before we knew it they had thrown a 50cm trevally onto our foredeck!! They refused to take anything for it and were soon seen towing the other boat back to their village.

Continuing southward, we arrived at Ko Tarutao after another day of motoring in good conditions early in the afternoon on Wednesday, 13 August. This was all new territory for us as previously we had passed along the west coast but this time we were on the east coast. It was protected from the weather and had many smaller islands which would make good anchorages on another occasion. We anchored off the national parks headquarters and once we were settled noticed that there was a lot of activity on the jetty. It then became apparent that the jetty buildings had been turned into a film set and they were preparing to film. As it got darker, flare lamps were lit and we could see them filming but by 9:00 it was all over – the lights were extinguished, all the people were taken away and we were left in peace and quiet.

With just over 30 NM to run to Bass Harbour in Langkawi, we left Tarutao and again motor sailed all the way down the east coast and around into Bass Harbour. It had taken us eight days at a leisurely pace and we had visited some beautiful anchorages we hadn’t seen before. Plus, we had eaten fresh fish and that’s always a bonus!!

Long Stay in a Marina, Short Trip to Burma

Last weekend we had to do a visa run as our Thai visas expired on Monday. One option for doing this was to take a minibus 300 km up to Ranong, then a ferry in and out of Burma, and return to Phuket in the same day – a trip of about 10-12 hours. Ranong is the most northern town on the west coast of Thailand where it meets Burma. We decided to do it at a more leisurely pace so we hired a car to drive ourselves instead. We made an internet booking at the Andaman Club Resort on Thahtay Kyun Island, just inside the Burmese border which allowed us to travel on their private fast ferry and pass through the Thai immigration and customs on their jetty – much easier. Plus, it was the low season so the cost of the night in the resort was fairly minimal. The drive up was probably more interesting than the stay on the island – there was a lot more to see and we are not really ‘resort’ people and found that part a bit boring. Wouldn’t you rather be checking batteries, planning your day around getting the laundry done or worrying about mooring lines?? Still, it was a nice break away from all the boat work and the scenery along the way made it all worthwhile.

Rainy afternoon in Yacht Haven from the condo

We moved off the boat in mid-June and rented a condo owned by the marina for six weeks. Originally we thought a couple of weeks would see the end of all the grinding, sanding, dust and dirt plus fibreglass smells but with the weather and other hiccups we finally moved back aboard a week ago before going to Ranong. It was a lot nicer to have a big air-conditioned room to escape to which included a large bathroom and a BATH.

So now, another week has gone by and still the work continues on Tweed in Yacht Haven. We are seeing some real progress though and the final layer of Gelcoat was sprayed on the non-skid sections of the deck yesterday, 12^th July. It is always assumed that boat work will take longer than originally anticipated but now we can see that the job is in the final stages and are almost thinking that soon we will be able to leave for Langkawi before our 30-day Thai visa expires. The boys from Boat Biz have been doing a great job and for us softies it is hard to believe that they can work away all day in the heat and humidity. They took the covers down when they started to spray which has taken longer than expected but we should be able to get them back up in a day or two. Their work now is concentrating on cleaning things up, re-fitting all the equipment that has been removed and generally getting things ship shape again.

In the meantime, apart from boat jobs, we have been enjoying meals at the local restaurants, getting to town occasionally, walking for an hour each morning about daybreak and socialising with other marina-bound yachties. Jon has finished re-jigging the nav station and it looks much better but most of all the spaghetti mess of wires behind it is all sorted out.

Decks really looking good now!!


Click here to see a slide show of work in progress
(Click "Slideshow above first slide)
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What a Time To Be Spending Money

Apr/May/Jun 2008

The quotes had come in and we had made the decision to have the deck work done so now we just had to make our way from Langkawi in Malaysia, back to Phuket in Thailand. We felt like old timers as we made our third passage up the northern end of the Malacca Straits, island-hopping in familiar waters, keeping an eye out for fishing boats and the weather. For once we weren’t under any real time constraints and we enjoyed anchorages at Ko Taratao, Ko Muk, Ko Ngai, Ko Phi Phi Don and Ko Yao Yai where we met up briefly in passing with Aquarius before finally arriving at Ao Chalong in Phuket.

More stamps in the passports and we were cleared for the first 60 days of our 90-day tourist visa. A few stores were bought and we left the anchorage for a short hop across the bay to Panwa Bali where we caught up with old friends on Crystal Blues for lunch and then dinner. A new day dawned and it was now the 10 April – time to get moving up to Yacht Haven Marina where we would spend the next two to three months having Tweed made over. We had lots to do before the work started in earnest on the 16^th. The shade covers had to be put up; the water maker had to be back-flushed as it would not be used while in the marina; the air conditioner had to be installed in the companionway; gear stowed on deck had to be removed to storage; deck equipment also had to be removed and stowed somewhere; plus we had to make time for friends we hadn’t seen for months or even longer – all this to do and it was so hot!! Thank goodness for the aircon!!

The boys from Boat Biz duly arrived on the allotted day and soon there was lots of noise, lots of dust and old teak being removed above decks. It was reassuring to see the results of all the work and know we were getting somewhere. The deck on the coachroof was in good condition so preparations continued for a few more weeks before the new teak would be put in place. The foredeck was, as expected, suffering from some rot in the balsa core. This was a result of water ingress around through-deck fittings for the anchor winch and the deck-wash. The damaged core was removed back to dry balsa and replaced with ‘plastic’ wood – a polyurethane board which is strong and waterproof and relatively cheap. This put the project back a few weeks but at least now we knew where the internal leaks were originating and no amount of re-caulking the old teak would have fixed them.

In the meantime, anti-skid sections have been pre-fabricated from fibreglass for us and these have been measured, cut and positioned on the side decks. They just need a bit more preparation and then the whole deck will be sprayed with Gelcoat – so it will almost look like new again! At least this time we will be able to see the results of the money we spend.

One diversion while here was celebrating another birthday with David from Taipan. We had a fabulous night out at Nai Yang Seafood where they serve the biggest oysters to be seen!!

Just When You Thought You Could Relax...

Feb/Mar 2008

Back in Phuket, we made arrangements in Yacht Haven Marina to have our badly worn, and now very leaky, teak decks removed. We will have the teak on the coachroof replaced with new teak but the side decks will be replaced with fibreglass and then fibreglass anti-skid sections which will all be sprayed with Gelcoat – parts of the boat should look like new again!! We have booked the work to start on 16 April, following the Buddhist festival of Songkran. So, watch this space some time in late June for news of the project.

So, our first two weeks in Phuket have gone very quickly with time taken for health checks, boat jobs, catching up with friends, shopping, and generally doing what we have to do on a daily basis before our visas expire on 14 March… whoops, plus one very exciting happening on 1 March when Erica arrives with her friend Nigel to spend nine days with us on Tweed.