Fish Bay

We left Quezon just after 0600 this morning as we had over 60 NM to get to Fish Bay. The tide was low and we had about 40 cm under the keel with one flash of 20cm! No problems though and just followed our track back out. It was a lovely day but hardly any wind. We did have a bit from the west (yes, west) and had the headsail and main up but it didn't last the full day. We arrived in the anchorage at Fish Bay, 09 58.602N, 118 39.509E, just before 4.00 so a good day as we averaged 6.4 knots with the engine going!


Passing an old fishing structure, leaving Quezon in the pre-dawn

Quite strong wind bullets off the shore but it should drop out later. We will go ashore tomorrow to find out about check-in and whether Immigration will be open in Puerto Princesa on a Saturday. Otherwise we will have to wait until Monday. We need to hire a jeepny to get across the island to Puerto Princesa for the formalities so don't want to go if no-one will be there.

Quezon

Arrived off Quezon this morning just before 10:00, 09 deg 15.496N, 117deg 59.757E. We have a brisk 18-20 knots from the ESE and as we have had to anchor about a mile out from the shore are wondering if it is worth it to bash ashore in the dinghy!! The wind is off the land so quite comfortable but we are only in about 3.5 metres of water.

After another lay day in Tagbita Bay we set off yesterday for Malapackun Island where we had a comfortable night behind the island, 09 deg 14.387N, 117 51.176E.

Fair Trading

Our foray back out into the South China Sea turned out to be a good day. Although unable to sail without the engine (we could have, but very slowly), we had current with us, blue sky, a light breeze and low swell. We trolled a lure but again no luck there. We arrived at Tagbita Bay about 1.30 p.m. and dropped anchor in behind the point and out of the worst of the swell - 08 deg 41.488N, 117 deg 19.688 E. Before the anchor had hit the bottom a small dugout with outriggers set out from the beach with 4 kids aboard, 1 teenage boy, a younger boy and girl and a smaller boy. Another young boy headed out from the other side. Within minutes they were asking for hats! We talked to them while getting sorted out and eventually gave them some bits and pieces but no hats. Then Mario, who we had already heard about, came around the headland from fishing and came across with his son to offer us some of his fresh fish. We bought what he seriously estimated by weighing his hand up and down to be two kilos of garfish for 60 pesos.

Fishing bangkas in Tagbita Bay

Still not sure of the value but a bunch of bananas with 7 hands cost us 20 pesos and a cabbage in Balabac cost 48 pesos so it didn't sound too outrageous and will be more than enough for two meals. Fish at last!! Once the goodies had been distributed and the fish paid for they all quickly disappeared back to their tiny village. It was not long though before the young boy and girl returned - they had a white-flowering orchid for us. We thought it was thanks for the other goodies but then they asked for biros! OK, one each. Not long after and they were back again this time with four coconuts. Unfortunately, we have no parang for cutting them open so we declined the offer this time. In the meantime Ambrosia had entered the anchorage and not long after Tony and Lyn dropped over for a cuppa. The kids returned, this time with a large parang and, first the girl, then the young boy and then the young boy opened the coconuts and handed them to us. Tony and Lyn told us that the locals are much more friendly down in this area but once we move further north they will almost totally ignore us. Time will tell.

And the bunch of bananas cost us about A$0.50! Here they are just starting to ripen.

Nautical Bits

We have been having a different day today. The boat has been cleaned below of salt and grime, we have been out in the dinghy to have a look about, and this afternoon Jon has been splicing new rope onto a couple of fenders and also a new dinghy painter. As well as the cleaning Pam made a nice decorative rope pull for the snap shackle on the painter so we have been putting our old nautical skills to good use - very relaxing pastime after the few days of sailing and mechanical work.

One of the many beautiful islands

It must be Sunday as there are not so many fishermen out today - we were actually hoping we might be able to trade for some fish but so far no luck. We had two young men drop by late yesterday - they had nothing to offer but asked for wine and then beer. We told them we didn't have any but would be happy to trade something else for fish, etc.

Wind has moderated considerably today so tomorrow we plan to head off to Tagbita Bay, about 30 miles up the west coast of PalawanIsland.

Sunset, Pandanan Island

Within Sight of Palawan Island

A short leg today of about 14 NM which took us to Pandanan Island. We are anchored in the lee of the island and some reef, 08 deg 16.2518N, 117 deg 09.9316E, and unusually the wind has decided to blow from slightly west of north - we would prefer NE to ENE! Along the way we saw quite a few fishermen out in their small brightly-painted outrigger boats bottom-bashing their baits to try and catch a fish. Through one section we had fish jumping all around us but despite trolling a lure we had no luck catching one. There are a lot of reefs and shoals in this area so we have to be vigilant when on the move, especially if the strong current tends to push us to one side. We are not far from Palawan Island now and our next leg will take us about 20 nautical miles up the west coast.

Balabac Bound

A beautiful morning this morning, 19 Feb, for our short 15 mile step up to Balabac town. A bit of a false start though when the alternator belt let out a warning squeal just on getting the anchor up. A quick check revealed the alternator bracket had broken so it was down with the anchor and off with the alternator. We started the generator to boost the batteries and set off once again for Balabac. We had a light 10 knot NE and some current with us so it was a pleasant passage and we dropped the anchor off Balabac in Calandarong Bay about 1130. A dinghy ride ashore found a small town with lots of shopfronts selling a selection of fresh produce and grocery items plus the usual hardware shops, clothing shops, etc. The friendly locals seemed pretty happy and returned our greetings. We soon found a mechanic who could do the welding of the bracket for us so we waited for that to be done, bought some stores and a sim card and headed back to Tweed.

Entering Calandorong Bay to visit Balabac Town.

It was then a short 6 mile hop up to Candaraman Island where we anchored off a white beach, 08 deg 04.612N, 117 deg 05.795E. For once we had some current with us - 3 knots for the last mile or two!!

Jon has been busy since, trying to re-fit the alternator. The weld was slightly off in angle so he has had to improvise with a few extra washers for the alternator to sit correctly. A late dinner tonight.

Arrival Philippines

Anchored in Clarendon Bay, 07 deg 49.000N, 117 deg 01. 290E, Balabac Island, Philippines, just after 4.00 p.m. 17 February. Conditions were not bad to start with, then a bit lumpy about 15NM miles across the straits and for the last few miles we had to push up to 2 knots of current. We were almost going sideways to make our destination as we set a course of 020 deg, trying to make our bearing at 350 deg - we were being pushed west by 30 degrees! We trolled a lure after sighting a beautiful mahi mahi leaping out of the water chasing a flying fish. We did hook something and think it was a mahi mahi but unfortunately it managed to throw the hook and get away.

Clarendon Bay is populated with a small group of Muslims who migrated from Sabah several generations ago. There are a few small stilt houses over the water and a small village ashore which is hidden by the jungle. The people are poor but very friendly and we have bartered for a bunch of bananas and four nice sized swimmer crabs. The bananas are yet to ripen but we expect that most of them will be dried for later use as there are so many of them!

The calm waters inside Clarandon Bay

We have been having a lay day today, doing a few boat jobs, etc. and will leave tomorrow morning for Balabac town where we should be able to pick up Philippine sim cards and a few replacement provisions. Our peace was shattered this morning though when a couple of the fishermen let off an explosion. We were both down below and it sounded like something had hit our hull very hard. We rushed outside to see them pulling in the fish they had stunned. Sad but true that they still choose to fish that way.

Balambangan Island

Anchored in Teluk Lung on Balambangan Island, 07 deg 16.630N, 116 deg 59.750E, with only 37 NM to the Philippines! Today's passage from Tambuluran started off slowly then the wind came in from the NE - we were hoping for the predicted ENE, especially once we passed the tip of Borneo. Once past the tip we had to motor sail into the stiff breeze which grew from 15-20 to 20-25 knots and kept our speed down considerably. Tacking was pretty much out of the question as the strong west-flowing current allowed for little headway. The waters were very confused and sloppy, making for an unpleasant sail. On the bright side, a line of rain clouds off our starboard stayed there so we didn't get wet and we had sun most of the day. The anchorage is in clear water off a flat peninsula with casuarinas trees lining a white beach and there is some reef between us and the beach.

One More Step

Finally managed to get away from Usukan Bay today. We left about 0600 when there was hardly any breeze and by 0800 we had some wind from the NE. It picked up during the day to about 15-18 knots which was quite comfortable in the considerably reduced sea conditions. We still had to put in a few tacks to make our destination though. We made our anchorage just south of Tanjong Tambuluran, 06 deg 49.560N, 116 deg 39.350 E, just after 1400. Wind blowing off the land at about 15-18 knots but very comfortable in the bay.

Staying Put

Spent today anchored in Usukan once more as the seas are still too rough for our liking. But there's always work to do - nice clean bilge, clean solar panels, another operational fan in the sleeping cabin, a 'sun visor' over the spray dodger front window, finished another book. We have mentioned before that cruising is quite often just doing boat maintenance in exotic locations - clean water, palm fringed beaches, jungle clad rocky headlands, friendly locals. It's nice to stop awhile.

Thumbs Down to Rocking and Rolling

Following a boisterous start to the day we are now re-anchored in Usukan Bay. The conditions in short sharp swells and 20+ knots from the NE were not worth enduring. We turned tail and returned to Usuakan and flat water. The wind is still blowing though. It has not been a waste of time and a few more chores have been completed - the injector fuel pump re-tightened, some re-stitching to the weather cloths, etc. A returning fishing boat came close by so we bought four small tuna mackerel from them for five Ringgits (about $1.70) so lunch was sorted! Several other returning fishing boats gave us the thumbs up for coming back as they knew what it was like out there. Tomorrow is another day so we will see what the morning brings.

And Roll We Did...

It's the northeast monsoon season and as we are heading northeast we have to put up with a northeasterly swell. Today it was about 2-3 metres and quite short which means uncomfortable!! The wind was light so we motor-sailed most of the way before deciding to call it a day. We are anchored up in Usukan Bay doing a few final putting-away chores. This is a lovely bay with several white sandy beaches and one small stilt village on the southern side. Not far from us is a jetty where last time we were here five big rig tenders were rafted together. With a clear blue sky the water looks very inviting and to east behind some small hills rises Mt Kinabalu covered in cloud as usual.
Position: 06 deg 22.390 N, 116 deg 20.620 E

Ready to Rock and Roll... Again

The inverter has been installed and everything is working well aboard Tweed. Fresh provisions have been stowed, Customs and Immigration procedures finalised and the marina paid up so we will untie our docklines tomorrow morning, 11 February, and depart for Palawan Island in the Philippines. We have not decided yet whether to stopover in one anchorage further north and then do an overnight passage to Palawan or whether to just take it easy day by day. We still have well over five months before we want to be back in Kota Kinabalu so maybe the second option. Time will tell.

Here is a chart showing Sabah on the northern section of the island of Borneo with the island of Palawan extending northeast of the tip. More parts of the Philippines can be seen as well. So now you have an idea of where we will be going.

Marina Life

The marina at Sutera Harbour in Kota Kinabalu is one of the cleanest we have ever stayed in. In fact some days it feels like we are floating in an aquarium as fish swim around and under the boat. Recently, there has been a large school of trevally patrolling the waters in here, maybe to feed off the large schools of small fingerlings which are doing their best to grow into big fish. Most marinas are just like huge fish attracting devices but normally you don't get to see many of the fish in the murky waters.

Here is a picture of just a few of the trevally swimming though the sunlight shining under the big boat next to us. No, we don't try and catch them as they are more like pets than fish for the table.







We still have no departure date for the Philippines as our new inverter is still on its way from Singapore - about three hours away by plane. Everything takes time, especially customs clearance!