The Waiting Game

We are now under the influence of several lows and a stationary high pressure system with squally winds and rain keeping us in Yamakawa. With spring tides yesterday we were kept on our toes last night as a squall passed through at high tide. The wharf here was only about 12-15 cm above water level at that time while at low tide it was over 2.7 metres above water level. Today the squalls continue but not quite as violent. We are hoping that the weather might be fine enough to leave on Saturday but we will wait and see.

In the meantime we are fairly well confined to below decks. The large rise and fall of tide means we need to check our mooring lines occasionally in the squally conditions to make sure they are loose or tight enough, so extended time away from Tweed has not been an option. We did have a nice lunch yesterday though just across the road at a relatively new 'local produce' market - a very clean and modern enterprise which is only open for business for two hours from 7:00 a.m. and then from 11:00 till 2:00 so no chance of dinner out there. There is not a lot happening close by apart from a group of stalwart fishermen who seem to be on the wharf at any time during the night or day, wind, rain or shine, catching tiny fish in the 24-metre deep water.

Something Old, Something New

We had just finished washing Tweed down after our arrival in Anbo when we had an invitation from a Japanese Navy support vessel to join them in their barbecue. They were tied up to the same dock and we had noticed their dockside feast in progress. Along with Bannisters we were welcomed by the crew and enjoyed barbecued beef, pork, chicken, rice balls, noodles and a few vegies. It was all excellent quality and was washed down with drinks from the seemingly unlimited supply of beer and shochu (the local distilled spirit, rather than brewed sake). A good PR exercise!!

Friday morning we managed to get a rental car for two days and took off for Yakusugi Cedar Land - sounds very touristy but we did a beautiful walk and saw the 1800-year old Buddha Sugi (Buddha Cedar). The drive into the mountains was breathtaking, with views back to the harbour and beyond. The vegetation has definitely changed with never a palm tree in sight and pine trees and cedars now predominating the landscape. Following lunch we set off for the Yudomari hot spring but the idea of sitting in hot water under the hot sun was not that appealing! We made our way back along the coast to the harbour at Anbo and then it was off to dinner at a local Japanese restaurant with Takimoto and the rest of the gang.

Saturday we went in the opposite direction, starting our day at Shiratani Unsuikyo, a recreation reserve and home to the 3000-year old Yayoisugi Cedar tree! We enjoyed this walk as well but thought the first one was a lot better. However, seeing the old tree made it all worthwhile. We continued our drive anti-clockwise around the island. The roads are excellent and best of all the speed limit is about 50 km/hr so it is easy driving round the rugged coast. At Miyanoura, the main town of the island, we stopped off for a lunch of Japanese-style burgers before buying some 'picnic' food for our dinner later on. We had hoped to snorkel at Isso Beach but the tide was too low so we continued on to our destination at Kuriohama Beach, stopping off at the Ohko-no-taki 80-metre waterfall on the way. The road along this section passes through the World Natural Heritage Site and we saw quite a few local deer as well as Japanese macaques. The macaques were quite different from the ones we have seen in other parts of SE Asia - they have very short or no tails, dark pink faces and longer hair. They don't seem to have much fear of cars or humans approaching so we were able to get a few pictures of them.

We finally arrived at Kuriohama Beach, unpacked our picnic dinner and enjoyed a sundowner while waiting for the next event. This was the hatching of loggerhead turtles which we didn't expect to happen until after 8:00 p.m.. We were very lucky though and the first one appeared coming out of the sand about 6:45 p.m.!! It took a while to get all the way out and then, one after the other, more appeared. The eggs had been placed inside an enclosure so the hatchlings had to be lifted out and placed about 10 metres from the water where they quickly made their way into the sea and swam away. It was another amazing sight to see but very sad to know that only about one in 5,000 baby turtles will survive. At least these ones had survived the birds but big fish would be waiting just off shore for them.

So, from the old trees to the new turtles, we had had an amazing couple of days.

We left Anbo on Monday and motor-sailed 57 NM to Yamakawa. The wind was very light and we had current against us so a slow day. We are now on the island of Kyushu, one of the big four islands of Japan. The harbour here is very well protected, 31 deg 12.167N, 130 deg. 38.026E. We were planning to leave tomorrow, Wednesday, but the weather forecast is not looking that good so we may be here for a few more days - tomorrow will tell.

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We left Dai Kuma on Monday for quite a boisterous sail to Mae Gomori on Takara Island, 29 deg. 09.380 N, 129 deg. 12.374 E. The wind was from behind about 20-25 knots so quite bouncy. We stayed two nights in Mae Gomori, as the day after we arrived there were quite a few showers about - these cleared late morning so we had a good bike ride after lunch and managed to find some more polystyrene fenders along one of the beaches. Our original ones are starting to wear out!

Yesterday we made the 63 NM north to Noshima on Kuchi-No Shima Island, 29 deg. 59.680 N, 129 deg. 54.871 E. It was a lovely green looking island but not a lot to see once we arrived so we decided we would push on today for Yakushima Island. So we arrived Ambo harbour, Yakushima Island this afternoon, 30 deg 18.776 N, 130 deg 39.527 E after a 7.00 departure from Noshima, 29 deg. 59.680 N, 129 54.871 E. We had current with us today with some strange effects from the strong movement and several rough patches along the way. Some current against us as we got closer to Yakushima Island but soon we were in the flood tide north and arrived just after 3.00 p.m.

Now we have been visited by local yachtie Takimoto who has kindly brought us town maps and Yakushima Island guide leaflets and is trying to organise a hire car for us and Bannisters for tomorrow - fingers crossed as there seems to be quite a bit see here on this World Natural Heritage listed island.

Connecting to Sailmail to send blogs and emails has been very difficult as the propagation in this area is not good.

Sunshine and Rainbows

Rainshowers followed our exit from Atetsu Bay and as we left the Amami Channel we had rainbows and then sunny skies for most of our 40 NM to Daikuma. Light winds helped push us along but we kept the engine going for all of the trip as we wanted to make water as well. A few showers were about causing occasional gusty conditions but otherwise a good day's sailing. On entering Daikuma harbour we headed for the wharf we had been told about to tie to but it proved too difficult with the wind blowing us off, the low tide making the wall too high and nothing much to tie to! We then had to circle about and change our mooring lines and fenders so we could come into wind to come alongside an alternate wharf which had rubber fenders and big bollards to tie to. Some heavy lines hanging into the water were stretched out and anchored further out creating a bit of a hazard for our deep keel but we had no problems and were soon tied up safely. Position : 28 deg. 24.181N, 129 deg. 31.172E.

Daikuma is a small town with most services and this morning we found the koyn randoree (coin laundry) and the supermarket. After some lunch we cycled the few kms across to Naze, the major centre on Amami Oshima to have a look around. Not a lot to see but we found a covered arcade to wander through before heading back to Daikuma and the boat. By this time the wind had picked up and Tweed was covered once more in dust and dirt from the wharf! How we miss hanging at anchor in secluded bays! Tomorrow we will sail 50 NM to Mae Gomori harbour on Takara Shima - shima or jima means island.

Hangin' Free

For the first time since leaving Bolinao in the Philippines (5 May) we are happily swinging free in Atetsu Bay and not in a boat harbour! We are on a mooring owned by Kasai-San, of the Yunamaru Boat Yard, who first welcomed us to Koniya. "Sailor's Heaven" is his name for this place and it is indeed a lovely place, 28 deg. 11.154 N, 129 deg 17.188 E. A dogleg into the bay has left us surrounded by tree-covered hills, deep clean water, and peace and quiet. Not like our nerve-wracking departure from the little wharf at Koniya where we had to shuffle boats to depart. First Bannister left, backing out easily, then Akira on Apollo was moved back into that space. Then the boat rafted up to us was put in Apollo's place. We had a line from our bow taken across the 20-metre width of the harbour to the other side. All lines were let go except the stern line and with help from our friends on the bow line and some full rudder to starboard with forward gear, we came round to face the light breeze and the entrance. We did not want to try backing out as Tweed is a bit temperamental in reverse - OK if plenty of room but with the rocks to one side of the entrance we did not want to try it! Whew! All went well and we motored serenely up the channel to Atetsu where we rafted up to Bannister, as there was only one of the four moorings available. We will leave early tomorrow morning for Daikuma, near Naze, on the NW coast of this same island, Amami Oshima.

Koniya was a delightful spot to spend a few days. Yesterday we thought we might hire a motor cycle but without an international licence that was impossible so we hopped on a bus and went to Marine Station - the rest of the map is in Japanese - which is actually some sort of resort. It was only a 25-minute ride but took us through some spectacular hills and coastal scenery, and through a couple of small villages which would have been interesting to see at a more leisurely pace. After a short walk to the top of a hill to view the channel entrance, we had a swim and a snorkel before having lunch at the resort. Surprise, surprise - the Bannisters were already there. They had hired motor bikes and found this to be the only restaurant on their morning ride. We had lunch together before they set off once again and we waited for our bus to collect us and take us back to Koniya.

Watching the Weather

We are on our first typhoon watch for the year. Typhoon Conson is presently crossing the island of Luzon in the Philippines and dropping heavy rain in the Manila area and beyond. We think of our friends in Subic Bay and hope they are bearing up well. The forecast is for Conson to continue its westward and then northwestern movement and make its next landfall somewhere near Macau in southern China. This is about 1800 km from our position so we are hoping the prediction is correct!

We have been out and about on our bikes the last two days - to the laundromat and other services around town such as the supermarket, library for internet, and visited the local museum above the library as well. All essential activities for visiting yachties. We had hoped to hire a motor scooter tomorrow but we are unable to without an international licence so will have to continue the pedalling... after Jon fixes Pam's flat tyre, that is.

Arrival Koniya

We enjoyed our last evening in Nagado Ko at a small Japanese restaurant not far from the boat harbour in the company of Hanna and Hendrick from Bannister and Anton from Sea Rover. The sushi was fantastic but the Set Meal A was a surprise - deep-fried crumbed prawn, chicken and pork with coleslaw and rice! We were expecting some sort of combination meal but it's all a part of the learning experience.

Once we had eaten we all trooped back to our boats and cast off for a night sail to Koniya Ko on Amami Oshima, about 112 nautical miles to the north east. It was a beautiful evening as the sky darkened and the stars came out in the moonless sky. The lights of Nagado Ko slowly disappeared behind us along with the lights from the northern end of Okinawa. Ahead the lights from several other islands appeared to take their place - it was a magical sight. We had lights from one island or another all night until dawn broke - not much more than eight hours since the last light. As dawn came upon us the wind died so we had to crank up the iron spinnaker to keep going to make our destination of Koniya Ko. It was a frustrating section of the passage with tide varying and sometimes trying to carry us off track. As we approached Amami Oshima strong currents and turbulence from the islands off the southern end made things tricky but we finally entered the channel between Amami and the island to the south and made our way to the visitors wharf.

The visitors wharf is relatively new and is approached by heading directly towards a small bridge and then turning sharply to the left as the entrance opens up. Bannister had already arrived and organised room for us - the inn was almost full! We made our way in and tied up. Each side of the narrow strip of water is some parkland with running water - bonus! The Coast Guard were soon there to welcome us and let us know that they had visited Australia. We have now left the Okinawa Prefecture and are in Kagoshima Prefecture.

Shortly after a group of sumo wrestler students arrived to do some training. They seemed to be aged from about 8-10 years up and stripped off and donned their wrap-around pants(?). Proud mothers looked on as they did their stuff.

Position: 27 deg. 57.260 N, 129 deg. 17.480 E

Lay Day in Izema Shima

A good day's sailing from Okinawa to Nagado Ko on Izema Shima (Island).  We left at 8.00 and sailed most of the 47 NM with the fastest leg after rounding Ie Jima (Island) when we picked up 1.5+ knots of current - our top speed was 8.6 knots.  We made good time until just SE of Izema Shima

when we encountered turbulence from the ebbing tide which was now against us.  A thunderstorm which had been rumbling away for a couple of hours decided to make haste to our preferred harbour and as we drew nearer and the sky blackened we furled our sails and motored as fast as we could.  Bannister had already tied up ahead of us and called to say we would have to raft up to them

as the wind change had moved several fishing boats so that they now sat alongside where we would have moored.  Fortunately, the threat soon dissipated, the wind died and it has been relatively calm ever since.  Maybe those strong winds which kept us in Okinawa have finally gone.  Our position here is 26 deg. 55.594N, 127 deg. 57.051E.

Tweed rafted to Bannister in the inner harbour, Nagado Ko

Today we have been riding our bikes around and exploring this lovely island with the Bannisters.  We had hoped for a swim and a snorkel but all the beaches we tried were too shallow!!  It is very pretty with many sugar cane fields and vegetable gardens and we have also seen goats, pigs, ducks and those spoilt cattle in their very green fields.  I think we found the only restaurant on the island and by the time we had cycled around and then up hill we felt we deserved our lunch - goat meat soup set, goat noodle soup, pork spare ribs and pork noodles. 

Jon's goat meat soup set

We have been very fortunate to have a ferry terminal close by and can receive wi-fi internet connection aboard the boat.  Some new photo albums have been added to the list at right.

Weather Watching in Okinawa

Our planned time in Okinawa of a few days turned into 8 days as we waited for strong winds to abate.  According to locals it is never that windy at this time of the year but how many times have we heard that before?  We busied ourselves the first couple of days doing laundry, cleaning the boat and endeavouring to source an internet modem.  This last started out hopeful but in the end we were unable to get one which has been a bit frustrating.  Two days after our arrival we had our first thunderstorm since leaving Sabah!!  It was right over the marina with vivid flashes of lightning and very loud thunder followed by very heavy rain.  We had another one before we left as well. 

So, what else to do but some sightseeing.

Tweed was moored in the marina at Ginowan about 15 km out of the main city of Naha - a bit far for a bike ride but we caught the bus in a few times.  Naha was flattened by Allied bombing during the war and has been completely rebuilt and new buildings and construction is happening all around.  We visited the pottery museum and walked along the Tsuboya Pottery road in Naha which is lined with pottery shops.  Several kilns have been unearthed and some are still in use in this area which has been making pottery since the late 1600s when it was part of the independent Ryukyu Kingdom. 

One night we went to an Okonomiyaki restaurant with our yachtie friends from Alishan, Sea Rover and Bannister.  Okonomiyaki can be described as a pancake batter mixed or topped with a variety of fillings - meat, seafood, vegetables, egg or whatever you want almost.  It is all cooked at the table on a large hot plate which you can do yourself or have the staff do for you.  

We also hired a car to drive up to the Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium to see the whale sharks.  They have three in the largest tank along with various rays and lots of other fishes.  It was pretty stunning to see such large fish up close.