Destination Fukuoka and Cherry Blossoms

Another cold morning as we motor on calm seas to Himeshima. 

Sunrise leaving Himeshima

 Fishing trawler, Inland Sea

Just three of the ships on the route to Kanmon Kaikyo (Straits) in the Inland Sea en route from Himeshima







Fishing vessels were scattered amongst the fast-moving shipping traffic in Kanmon Kaikyo

Second time under the Kanmon Bridge, leaving the Inland Sea behind us.

After our arrival in Odo Marina we spent Wednesday doing things like laundry and shopping and washing the salt off Tweed....

... then, we were surprised when Jaap (Alishan) arrived with half a yellow-fin tuna for our dinner.

Here, Jaap slices the tuna for sashimi... mmm.

Wow!  Where do we start??













Thursday morning our Japanese friend Sakae-san kindly took us to the airport to see the Immigration Bureau to apply for a visa extension.  Fortunately, we were granted an extension and then Sakae took us to Nishi Koen (West Park) to see some of the first cherry blossoms of the season in Fukuoka.

Jon and Sakae-San in Nishi Koen with a white cherry blossoms behind them

Back to Fukuoka

Another early start yesterday when we left Tobata at 6:00 a.m. for Oshima Island, 30NM away.  The winds were light once more from the WSW and we did have the headsails out on a couple of occasions but not for long.  We were abeam Oshima about midday so decided to continue on to Odo Yacht Harbour in Fukuoka, another 20NM and easily reachable. 
The forecast for the area was W to NW reaching 20 knots later so we were happy to think that if the wind picked up it would be in our favour.  The wind direction we had was not particularly where we would like it to be.
Our course took us directly to a headland to the north of Fukuoka where we would turn to go the last 8NM to Odo.  Well, of course, after such an uneventful passage so far something had to happen and we could see wind approaching.  Thinking the northwester had finally arrived we envisaged a fast downwind sail into the harbour.  It was not to be though.  The wind was a 25-30 knots squall from the SW and just off our heading!!  We quickly furled the headsail and mainsail and motored directly to the marina,.  At least we had now reached protected waters so the waves were not as bad as they would have been further out. 
We arrived in Odo at 4:15 about five minutes after the system had passed and the wind was back down to 5 knots. 

Position: 33-35.5N, 130-18.7E

A Long Day

An early start to the day when we left Himeshima at 5:30 for the 50NM leg to Tobata.  The forecast changed once again but until we passed under the bridge at Kanmon at 1:30 we virtually had no wind apart from a few light airs.  We had the headsail out twice but not for long.  Once under the bridge we pushed current and 20 knot headwinds 15NM to Tobata, all the time making sure we kept out of the way of ships coming and going through the straits. 

We finally docked at Tobata Seaside Spa pontoon at 4:45 p.m.  We had planned to pull into the Tobata Fishing Harbour but the harbour itself is too small for a boat our size to manouvre easily so continued on to the Seaside Spa, knowing that Nippon Steel had already informed us that we could not stay there!!  Almost there and Coast Guard came up alongside and ordered us to stop!!  After a couple of minutes they said it was OK and to continue on.  They followed us to the pontoon and also tied up and then invited Jon to visit their boat.  They were very nice but said that we shouldn't be here and agreed the fishing harbour was no place for us.  They said we could stay one night so fingers crossed the weather will be OK for our passage to Oshima Island tomorrow.  It is hard to work it out as the Japanese weather seems to change every time there is an update and the GRIB files we download don't always agree with the JMA forecasts.  It's always a guessing game and sometimes it works in our favour. 

So now we relax with a glass of wine and try to forget the last couple of hours after an easy crossing from Himeshima and hope that tomorrow will bring favourable weather.

Position: 33-52.7N, 130-48.5E

Icy Decks and Sunny Skies

Arrived Himeshima Island just on 1:00 p.m after a 6:30 a.m icy departure from Yanai - yes, we had ice on the decks and canvas this morning so we made sure we had plenty of layers of warm clothing on.  Otherwise, a day of motoring under sunny skies into a slight headwind.  Travelling WSW we crossed three shipping lanes and only had to deviate once and then it was unnecessary.  Amazing how many fishing trawlers are out there working the waters across the lanes as well.

Tomorrow's plan is to set off at first light and try and get through the Kanmon Kaikyo, about 35NM WNW from here.  The forecast is for north, SW and then west winds, 15 knots, so will be interesting to see what we get and how it affects our progress.  We need to be at Kanmon by 4:00 to catch the west-flowing current.

Position: 33-43.320N, 131-38.875E

Yanai, Second Time Around

Arrived in Yanai just after midday, passing under the Obatake Bridge slightly before the tide turned in our favour.  We hope to go direct to Himeshima, Oita Prefecture, Kyushu, from here but another near-gale warning has been issued so will wait and see what the morning brings before venturing out into the open waters of the Inland Sea.

Position: 33-57.394N, 132-08.013E

First Leg South

Miyajima on Itsukishima Island is renowned for the O-Torii (Grand Gate), which stands in the sea (except at low tide) just offshore from Itsukishima Shrine.  The Shrine, built in 1168, is on stilts and also stands in the sea.  We had hoped to spend a night or two at this island but for various reasons decided to go to Okinoshima Island on the first leg of our southbound journey.  We made a detour this morning to sail past the O-Torii and get these pics.  But wouldn't you know it - after a cloud-free start to the morning, a large dark bank of cloud came over the top, reducing visibility and light.  The gate which is made of wood, just sits on the sand and at low tide people can walk around it.

 

Unable to get very close as it is in shallow water, we took a few pictures anyway and then turned around to continue on to Okinoshima. 

 Above you can see the mist and cloud making it a very dull day and the O-Torii to the right

There are numerous oyster farms in this area - we have to keep a look-out for the corner markers to keep clear of them.  Leaving Okinoshima we had called them FADs - Fish Attracting Devices - but they are actually oyster farms which also act as FADs.  There are small tugs moving about the area towing them from place to place and, here, a couple of unmanned fishing boats hitch a ride as well.


A bit further along and suddenly a submarine appeared speeding along at a fine rate and passing behind us.  Apparently there is a submarine base and naval training college not far from here.

The day has been quite changeable with cloud clearing, and then the wind coming up - yes, another near-gale warning has been issued.

More Sights in Hiroshima

 Saturday was a nice day so we decided to take a train to Iwakumi, about 40km south of Hiroshima.  The big attraction here is a wooden bridge, originally built in 1673 using castle construction techniques for the piers and wooden framework which is self-supporting.  It was claimed that the bridge would never be washed away.  However, following WWII and a period of inadequate maintenance a violent typhoon hit the area in 1950 and it did indeed wash away.  So the bridge we saw was reopened in 1953 and underwent major renovation in 2004.

Apart from the bridge there were other things to see.  We decided not to visit the castle on the hill which involved a cable car ride due to those who do not like doing rides in cable cars.

On the bridge.








So we wandered around the pleasant gardens, still mostly dormant from winter, saw the shrine and pavilion, visited one of the musems and saw the samurai house and garden.  All very relaxing before another ride in the train back to the city. 

Kin' unkaku Pavilion

Kanon Marina has room for hundreds of boats (maybe 350) but as can be seen here there are many vacant berths.










Saturday night's biggest full moon in 17 years!












 Sunday was a day of continual drizzle so we decided on a bus trip to the city to find an okonomiyaki restaurant.  The Hiroshima Okonomiyaki is different from the ones we have tried in Okinawa and Fukuoka.  Rather than a pancake batter base, these ones have a very thin pancake base topped with heaps of cabbage, bean sprouts and other bits and pieces, then cooked noodles and additions of your choice. 

We had the seafood special but have to admit we preferred the Okinawa variety

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park

We returned to the Peace Memorial Park to visit the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum.  We weren't particularly looking forward to it but it was something we wanted to do and one of the reasons for continuing on to Hiroshima.



The Peace Gates

The museum is laid out over two sections with the first section being more of a historical lead-up to WWII and the subsequent bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki.  The second section was much more emotive with displays of personal belongings of those who died, a lot of them children, and exhibits of damage inflicted by the bomb; roof tiles, steel shutters, etc.

8:15 a.m.: the time the bomb was dropped

 

Our visit was well worth it despite being very moving and saddening.






The Cenotaph with the A-Bomb Dome in the background. 

Cruising Plans - Never Set in Concrete

A nice sunny day on our departure from Okinoshima Marina after a couple of windy and grey days.  A trip to the local village courtesy of the harbour master ensured we had some food for the next few days so we left for Hiroshima, 16NM to the north. Leaving the marina we had to navigate past these FADs, fish attracting devices.  Each day we could see a fishing boat trawling between the rows of bamboo rafts and, we guess, netting some fish.

The passage to Kanon Marina was a bit slow with a slight tide against us and no wind, interrupted only by a visit from a Customs vessel which came alongside to check our papers.  As this was happening we noticed it was snowing!!  It's supposed to be springtime!  To the north and east the sky was relatively clear but to the west it was dark and falls of snow could be seen along the hilly coastline.  

We tied up at the long visitors' dock in the marina and did the usual check in with staff there.  They were very welcoming and as well as a good price for our stay, they gave us maps and info on what to do in Hiroshima.


We then gathered the necessary documents and caught a bus into the city to visit the Ministry of Transport.  Here we submitted an amended cruising plan - we will not continue on to Osaka but backtrack to Fukuoka, Nagasaki and further south to Okinawa and beyond.  Our plan is to leave Japan but timing will depend on the weather as to when we are able to do this.

We now have to wait for the necessary documents to come through before we are able to leave Hiroshima so in the mean time we will do some sight seeing - there is plenty to see here.

We decided to walk back past the Hiroshima Castle and into the Peace Memorial Park.

The castle moat and the second compound in the castle grounds.

It wasn't long before the A-Bomb Dome came into view- a stark reminder of man's inhumanity to man and the horrors nuclear war.

But life goes on - young girls giggled and photographed each other with the dome in the background.


We were a bit late to visit any of the museums and plan to do that tomorrow.

Colourful strings of paper origami cranes adorned several monuments in the park

Walking back to the bus we passed these electricity company union members protesting against nuclear power stations in Japan.

Tweed on the visitors' dock in Kanon Marina with the fun park in the background.

Position: 34 deg. 21.55N, 132 deg. 24.94E

Okinoshima

Our departure from Yanai had to take into consideration the current running under the Obatake Bridge, about 3NM away.  As the gap is quite narrow the tide can run through at up to 7 knots.  Luckily we were in neap tides so the speed was less than 3 knots against us.  We delayed our start until after 9.30 so that the current would be nearing slack tide before turning in the direction we wanted to go and as we only had just over 20NM to go there was no hurry.


It was a grey old day though and at times the haze was so bad we donned our masks hoping they might prevent us breathing in whatever was contained in the haze.



None of the forecast wind evenuated so it was a motoring trip for the whole way with our time spent watching out for Hiroshima-bound shipping traffic and fishing boats.

We made our way into the marina at Okinoshima, weaving our way through masses of floating fish attracting devices.  We were met by the very friendly harbour master who led us to our berth - a nice long one, much to our surprise.

We were then shown the facilities which included a large washing machine at no extra charge!  This made our day as we had not been able to do any laundry since leaving Odo Marina 10 days ago!  The clean clothes locker was almost empty so the machine was kept busy all afternoon.

We now have a gale forecast at least for the next two days.  We shall stay here and get some jobs done, refuel, top up the water tanks, refill the gas tank, shop for groceries and maybe have a look around this lovely little island before continuing a little further north to Hiroshima.

Position:  34 deg. 09.448N, 132deg 26.386E

Off to Honshu

We decided not to leave Himeshima until we had seen at least one of the Seven Wonders of the island.  Here is Sen Nin Do, a temple where it is said that if you pray here on New Year's Eve you will gain assistance from 1000 gods in times of trouble.  It wasn't New Year's Eve but it would be nice to think that the gods would be looking after us as we continue our travels in Japan.




 




Although it is now spring we haven't really seen very many plum blossoms but we found a garden with a lot of plum trees really getting into the flowering act.











 
We left Himeshima this morning just before 7:00.  We only had about 35NM to run to Yanai on the main island of Honshu but we decided to leave plenty of time to allow for currents and wind.  The wind was predicted 15-20 knots SE then S which was good.  In fact, we had very light wind from the NE (hopefully nuclear-free), and the skies cleared to a nice sunny day.   Here Himeshima island disappears into the morning smoggy mist behind us.

We made good time and arrived in Yanai port about 1330 where we tied up to a large, old floating ferry pontoon.  There is a chain across the top of the ramp with a sign in Japanese, probably telling people to keep out!  

A short walk and we were able to buy bread and milk but the area near the ferry terminal appeared quite old and dilapidated.  Oh, well, we'll only be here one night.  Tomorrow we will move on 20NM to Okinoshima marina.

Yanai position: 33-57.392N, 132-08.011

Tsunami

We were aboard late yesterday afternoon and after enjoying a cup of tea came below to do a few things.  Jon noticed a new message on our Navtex - a tsunami alert had been issued and included the area we were in!  Pam attempted to check the Japan Meteorology Agency website but the pages wouldn't open.  We heard voices and the local policeman was on the dock to let us know that a half-metre tsunami was predicted for 4:30 p.m. and we should go to the ferry terminal to watch the TV.  Eeek.  We grabbed important documents, some extra clothing and toiletries and the laptop which is our main source of communication with friends and family.

As we left Tweed, we loosened off all her dock lines, hoping she would fare OK being moored to a concrete wharf.  We had spent the afternoon preparing and fitting some old extra-large polystyrene fenders which we had managed to get from a fisherman and hoped they would be of some help.  The fire truck then came by and said the tsunami was now forecast for one metre at 4:50 p.m.

The scenes on the TV were horrendous and the waiting was nerve-wracking.  The time was put back to 5:30, then 5:50 and then 6:10.  The time passed and nothing happened.  We were then told that a small wave about 12:40 a.m. would occur.  We decided to go and eat at a local restaurant and then we found a small ryokan (Japanese inn) to stay the night.  There was nothing else we could do for Tweed so hopefully she would be all right.


We slept well and arrived back aboard about 7:00 a.m.  All was well aboard and Tweed was still floating.  The strong winds of the past few days had died off and all was calm.

In the meantime many parts of the Japanese coast have been devastated as the tsunami has inundated coastal areas.  The scenes on TV were horrendous.  We are thankful that we and our boat are OK and also a big thank you to all of those who have been in touch with us and concerned for our safety.

Day One in the Inland Sea

With a gale warning out and winds up to 30 knots forecast, we still decided to make a run for Himeshima, an island off the NE corner of Kyushu Island.  The forecast proved more than correct when upon arrival it had since changed to a gale warning with winds up to 35 knots due to a developing low to the north of us.  So a lively passage was had on our first day of sailing in the Inland Sea!

The waters were particularly lumpy from about 5NM out from our destination and it was hard not to watch the miles count down as we drew closer to protected waters.  We arrived in the harbour at Himeshima just on 2:00 p.m. and tied up to a long wharf where, surprisingly, there was lots of room.  The wind inside was still blowing 25-30 knots, making it difficult to get the the lines tied ashore as the wind tried to blow us off.  Not a soul in sight to help take our lines but Jon did a great job and soon we were safely moored.  Position: 33 deg 43.318N, 131 deg 38.862E

We will spend at least a couple of days here doing a bit of exploring of the island and find the local hot baths.  They are rather addictive. 

Under the Kanmon Bridge and into the Inland Sea!

With the current not being in our favour to make the 50NM direct to Himeshima Island, we decided to leave Tobata at lunchtime to catch the afternoon current through the Kanmon Straits and into the Inland Sea.  Shin Moji Marina was just 20NM away and would be easy to make before dark. 

 Tweed on the old pontoon at Tobata

The Wakato Bridge after leaving Tobata

 

Pushing into the turbulent waters in the Kanmon Straits

Making sure we keep out of the way of shipping traffic

The Kanmon Bridge crosses the narrowest section of the Straits 

Under the bridge...

... and our first view of the Inland Sea

We picked up the eastbound current about one mile from the bridge and were able to continue on with positive current for the remainder of the passage to the marina.  We arrived at 4:00 p.m. and were met by staff who directed us to a nice big berth and helped tie us up.  A bit expensive for one night's stay but the alternative was to wait another 5 or more days in Tobata to wait for a favourable current with enough time to get to Himeshima.  We will leave here early tomorrow morning, and with luck, have a downwind run for the 35NM passage.

Position: 33 deg 53.4 N, 131 deg 00.2E