Last Wednesday, after our relaxing few days in the Cabugan Islands, we motor sailed the 24NM to Candaraman Island, bypassing Pandanan Island. Here we anchored a bit further to the north where it has a sandier bottom forgetting that this is where the fishing bangkas had been anchored on our previous stopover. By nightfall we were surrounded by these interesting looking vessels. We think they have crews of about 16-20 and assume they dive the reefs given all the clothing hanging around them. They send off smaller boats to the shore, maybe for stores but also for firewood, many of the guys headed for the reef to the south pushing bamboo rafts to collect more seafood before dark (a couple returned after dark, their lights illuminating the water as they came back). Heaps of firewood was piled towards the rear of the bangkas where they have their cooking gear set up. Fires burn and dinner is cooked. They all eat and soon all is quiet in the anchorage as they bed down for the night.
We were awoken by the smell of smoke as one had drifted quite close as the wind and tide changed and was about 20 metres off our bow. Mmmm... would we get our anchor up? No worries, they all slipped quietly out of the anchorage just before we were ready to leave.
However, we would not be venturing south that day. On arrival at Candaraman, we had internet coverage and messages from friends informed us of troubles in Sabah. Sulu rebels had arrived in Lahad Datu several weeks ago and still had not been routed. The Army and Navy and Police commandos were in full swing and things weren't looking good for entry into Kudat. Many rebels had been killed and also Malaysian Police Commandos. We heard things like Air Force bombers, mortars and howitzers being fired. Yachts there had been told they weren't to leave. There had now been problems on Banggi Island, a few miles directly north of Kudat. This dispute is centuries old as the Sulu Sultanate still claims to own Sabah for which Malaysia pay rent. So now we had the dilemma of deciding what to do.
We thought of just heading directly down the west side of the tip of Borneo to get to Kota Kinabalu. The NE winds would give us good speed but if we happened to be intercepted and told to return it would be difficult with Jon's shoulder sailing back to windward. We ended up being cautious and Thursday backtracked to Rio Tuba, 37NM to the north. We were starting to get to know this area like the backs of our hands! At Rio Tuba there is a small village with access to markets, shops and top ups for phone and internet. We would sit there for a few days and see what transpired. Not one for sitting still, Jon kept busy changing a hose on the engine water system, installing a new thermostat, fixing the HF which had been going haywire the last couple of days (another reason we felt anxious about leaving if we had no internet coverage and the HF not working which meant no comms).
We also had the opporunity to visit the Saturday market which is their big market day. Wow, there were big trucks in town that had brought all sorts of produce, the fresh markets were full of good fruit and vegetables including the biggest avocadoes we have seen, fresh fish, fresh pork and fresh beef, etc. plus all sorts of other stalls (darn, we left the camera on the boat).
We got to know a couple of the local kids. They come alongside and call out Hello friend, Are you my friend. Nice kids and we gave them a few bits and pieces which they politely thanked us for. They also brought us some bananas and even though we had just bought some we accepted them. These were a gift to us though and they wouldn't accept money. Very sweet.
By this time information received seemed to indicate things had quietened down and we started to think it was time to move south again. We had considered continuing north to Puerto Princessa and the winds were showing signs of lightening which would have made it a bit more comfortable but we still preferred to get back to Malaysia. Another boat had also arrived in the river. They had come from the south calling in at Kota Kinabalu, Mantanani Island and Clarendon Bay on the SE tip of Balabac Island (Philippines). Jon went over and spoke to them about the troubles and they did not even know about it, had not been intercepted, called up or otherwise bothered. With all this information sounding a bit more positive we left Rio Tuba on Saturday and went directly to Candaraman Island. Not much wind but at least the current with us for a change.
It was only about 1:30 when we anchored and the water was the most beautiful colour and so clear that we couldn't resist a swim. What a change it makes to have some full sun. The water clarity and colour was just stunning and here we were wanting to leave.
Only one bangka this night but maybe the others knew that the wind would be coming from the north - straight along the anchorage. Blowing about 10 knots up to 15 it was a bit bumpy into the night but no problems. We slept until about 3:30 when we were both awake and decided it was time to pull the anchor. We left about 4:00 in the dark under starry skies but no moon. Very light breeze from NW and some current with us. We had a call from the Balabac Coast Guard who had picked us up on AIS. He asked the usual questions about last port, next port, crew on board, etc. and that was it. Making good time and hope to get to Tambuluran Point before dark.
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