Maintaining the Average

The good news on the fishing front continues. Having dragged a troll line all through Indonesia in 2006 and then in and around Malaysia and Thailand ever since and failing to catch the 'big' one, as reported in the last blog the drought has broken. Since catching a nice mackerel leaving Thailand in August, we have caught three more ranging in size from 70-102 cm. We have enjoyed having fresh caught fish to eat and it has been made a whole lot more enjoyable by being able to share our catches with others. This gives us an average of one fish per month and we are hoping to improve on that or at least maintain it. The amazing part of these catches was that three of them were caught (separately) on our set of five small plastic squid lures on nylon line! Only one was caught on our 'proper' Rapala red and white lure complete with wire trace. We have obviously missed a couple though as twice we have had to repair ithe rig by adding a couple of new hooks and plastic squid when they went missing, probably bitten off by a biggie. Added to this tally of mackerel has been one wolf herring. These fish are often seen leaping from the water, usually away from the boat, and seem to bounce as they hit the water and then leap off again, sometimes leaping 10 or more times before they disappear beneath the waves once more. Well, one of them obviously became confused and leapt right onto our foredeck, bouncing off the coachroof and then slithering down the gunnel. Down below it sounded like a sheet rope had come loose but on checking Jon saw the fish thrashing itself to death. It seemed a pity to waste it by throwing it over the side so although they are very bony, the chief cook managed to fillet off a few strips of flesh from the 70cm fish for dinner. She wasn't too fussy though so a lot of it was donated to other creatures of the sea. Not knowing what to expect a delicious red curry of fish pudding was served - a mix of red curry paste, coconut milk, egg and chopped fish, steamed in a bamboo steamer lined with Thai basil leaves.... mmm mmm....

Another Fishy Story

We see many fishing boats along the coast here which keep us on our toes on any passage, long or short. These range from large ocean-going trawlers, large and small squid boats with booms fitted with bright lights to attract the squid, trawlers in pairs (don’t want to get caught between those), long-tails with usually two people aboard and maybe some sort of flimsy covering. If they think it is at all possible, they will try to pass in front of our bows, believing any demons on their boat will pass onto our boat. While in the Bulan passage, there were several smaller long-tails with two fishermen aboard who motored into the anchorage, shut down their noisy diesel engines and then just drifted past us on the current. They didn’t set lines or nets or use rods but just a handline with a hook on the end which they simply jigged up and down and regularly pulled in a small fish. Size doesn’t seem to matter here and if you look closely at the picture you can just make out a fish being brought in by the fisherman at the back of the boat. You can also see the engine and understand why it is so noisy!

Return to Phuket

Since leaving Penang on 16^th October, Tweed spent a month in and around Langkawi, mostly in the anchorages at Telaga and off Kuah Town. A few jobs got done, duty-free stores were taken on board, some sightseeing and shopping trips were made plus of course some plain old relaxation with friends. The night of the 28th was spent with friends at the Wonderland Restaurant in Kuah celebrating Jon's 65th birthday and a good night was had by all. Several nights later a squall of 50 knots hit us while at anchor in Telaga causing a few anxious minutes as Tweed was hit broadside and knocked over at least 30 degrees. The anchor tripped as she slewed round and she started to drag but, fortunately, being on the western side of the anchorage we were able to motor forward in the heavy rain knowing the way was clear and then to drop the anchor where it held securely for the rest of our stay.

Jon, left, celebrating his 65th with Bryce and Martha, SV Silver Fern

Tweed arrived in Phuket on Friday 21 November after leaving Langkawi on 14 November. Our first night was spent anchored off a long beach on Ko Tarutao where we were joined by David and Kris on Taipan. After a dinghy ride up the freshwater creek we all went ashore for a barbecue on the beach while the sun went down. It was a pity about the sandflies though. Next day we went the short distance to anchor in the passage between Ko Bulan and Ko Khao. This was a delightful anchorage out of any swell and strong wind and as the tide receded we saw lots of Long tailed macaques feeding along the mud flats. We decided to spend the next day here doing a few odd jobs and enjoying the anchorage.

Pristine fresh water creek

We left the next morning, taking the northern entrance to the passage which the charts showed had a depth of less than one metre and our pilot guide recommended even catamarans think twice about going through. However, while out in the dinghy we had checked the depths with a hand held depth sounder, so we went through on a spring low tide and it never fell below 3 metres in the shallowest section. The channel itself was over ten metres for most of the way.

Not so pristine beach

From here we did a longish day of 42 miles to arrive at Ko Muk just before sunset and it was only right that after such a long day we should join Taipans for dinner at the restaurant ashore. Although there are several restaurants there belonging to the resorts we chose a very 'rustic' place run by locals, located on the side of a hill with views over the anchorage to the sunset. The slight shore break made for an interesting dinghy launch in the dark to get back to our respective boats.

Next morning we decided to beat the tourists and re-anchored a couple of miles away in a lovely little cove not far from the Emerald Cave. Although we had been this way before the conditions had never been right to go into the cave which opens up to the hong so named because of the effect of the sunlight on the jungle foliage covering the sides. The cave through to the hong is a relatively short distance in the dark as it curves round to come out at a small beach. We did it at low tide and paddled through in the dinghy. Back in the cove, a walk on the beach revealed the usual assortment of footwear, polystyrene, fishing floats, cigarette lighters and other garbage which we can almost guarantee does not come from any visiting yachts.

Cave entrance on the inside of the Emerald Cave hong.

After some snorkelling and lunch , it was a short 5 miles away to Ko Ngai - we had been enjoying some quiet anchorages so now it was time to moor on the east side of an island and see if we could provoke a nice north easterly. We managed this quite well and spent the night rocking and rolling in the 10-12 knot breeze, casting off the mooring as soon as it was light enough to see.

The north easterly stayed with us as we sailed north to Ko Lanta and then up the western side to an anchorage at the northern end of the island. The sustained wind, although not strong, had built up a slight swell so it was a bit rolly but relatively comfortable. We went ashore for some lunch and found our way through the string of resorts lining the beach to the main road and eventually a suitable place to eat - that means not resort prices. It was so nice to be back in Thailand and enjoying Thai food once again. We all had a delicious Pad Thai before making our way back to the beach stopping along the way to pick up some necessary fruit and veg.

We had good sailing again the next day when we did a leg up to Ko Dam Khwan or Chicken Island, so named because of the chicken shaped rock on the south side. A couple of miles out the wind picked up and was gusting to 20 knots when all of a sudden the fishing rod drag went off!! Pam had to ease off the sails to slow the boat down while Jon wound in the fish. It was mackerel number four and this one measured 70cm. So, it was dinner on Tweed that night with Taipans for company to enjoy it. The anchorage at Chicken Island did not offer a lot of protection in the gusty conditions where we anchored in the lee of a reef and small island.

Our last day on passage we decided to go all the way to the anchorage at Yacht Haven. We set off across the bay past Ao Nang with winds gusting over 25 knots so our first five miles were pretty sprightly. Once we got in behind the headland leading up into Phang Nga Bay the wind eased but continued to gust up to 20 knots occasionally. We came round the top of Ko Yao Noi with flukey winds but managed to sail most of the way to Yacht Haven.

Star Clipper cruise ship in Phang Nga Bay