It is now almost three weeks since we arrived in Penang and as we decided to apply for our Indian visas while here we have had a bit of a wait on our hands - they take 10 working days to process plus there just happened to be two public holidays in there as well – Hari Raya Aidil Fitri, marking the end of Ramadan. This meant two and a half weeks to fill in Penang – not too difficult. We still had varnishing work to do and our friends on More Magic were next to us so we would also fit in some sightseeing and shopping around 
Penang. Most mornings began with a walk along the waterfront and back through the streets of George Town, taking in the markets. Some mornings we lingered for a Chinese breakfast of yum cha or rice porridge, or an Indian breakfast of roti with curry sauce and mango lassi. Passing through the markets we would pick up fresh fruit and vegetables to see us through the day until it was time to head off for dinner.
Just next to the marina is the Jetty where seven car and passenger ferries ply between George Town on Penang Island and Butterworth on the mainland. We had never done this trip before so along with Daun and Chris we decided to have a day out in Butterworth and visit the Bird Park. The ferry only charges on the return 
trip and costs RM1.20 (AU$0.40) so is good value. The Bird Park was well worth the visit and we saw lots of fabulous birds including many different owls and hornbills from both Malaysia and other countries around the world. There were also many Golden Pheasants which had stunning plumage. During the afternoon a thunderstorm passed through and by the time we arrived back the marina was very lively with boats rocking and rolling in the turbulence.
We arrived in Penang just before the end of Ramadan, the Muslim month of fasting, and shortly afterwards it was the Nine Emperors Gods Festival which, according to the Taoist calendar is held on the ninth day of the ninth lunar month. This is when the spirit of the Nine Emperor Gods, which are believed to dwell in the stars, descend to earth and possess spirit mediums, putting them in a trance. During the Festival, stalls are set up to sell vegetarian food and special Kew Ong Yah vegetarian cakes and other goodies. We were fortunate enough to be with Daun and Chris from More Magic when a Chinese friend of theirs, Catherine, was visiting from Malacca. She took us for a vegetarian meal at the restaurant at the Indian Temple of Fine Arts and then on to the Nine Emperor Gods Temple in Burmah Road to watch the mediums having the bad spirits beaten out of them. Unfortunately, it was a Sunday night and they weren’t doing it that night but they were doing it at another Nine Emperor Gods Temple a few kms south of the marina so we whizzed off there. In the space of a few hours we had eaten Indian, watched traditional Indian musicians and singers, witnessed the entranced mediums and watched a bit of Chinese opera (very noisy).
The festival culminates in a float procession where the gods are sent into the sea in emperor boats. Unfortunately, we missed that bit as we were at the airport waiting for Erica to arrive from Brisbane. After a missed flight from Kuala Lumpur to Penang she finally arrived at 8:00 in the middle of heavy rain but safe and well. It was good to see her at last and we hoped to be able to show her some of Penang on her short stay with us.
Meanwhile the festivals continue in Penang. Thursday evening, 9 October, we saw a Hindu procession of a highly decorated chariot drawn by two decorated bulls through Little India as part of the Navarathiri or Nine Nights Festival as it left from the Arulmigu Maha Mariamman Temple (the oldest Hindu temple in Penang). The chariot carried the image of the Goddess Mariamman, a Tamil village goddess related to fertility and rain. Locals had told us that during the nine-day festival rain was expected each day and as the procession left the temple a thunderstorm came through drenching everyone! The chariot proceeded very slowly through the streets with shopkeepers and local merchants bringing out trays of offerings to be blessed. It was all very colourful and noisy with most of the noise coming from the following truck carrying a generator to power all the lights.
Following on from this we thought it was fitting to eat Indian that night and after meeting up with Erica enjoyed tandoori chicken, curries and banana leaf at one of the local restaurants. Jon had banana leaf where a section of banana leaf is used as a plate with three different ‘side’ dishes of dal and curried vegetables served with either white rice or biryani rice. Further curry dishes and breads are added to your choice for a delicious meal.
We plan to be in Penang now until about 15th October after Erica has returned to Australia. We will make our way back to Langkawi for a short stay and then continue on north to Phuket in Thailand.
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