23 May 2009

Kuala Terengganu is the capital of the Malaysian state of Terengganu and being located on the north eastern coastline of the peninsula has always been a bit remote from the rest of the country along with the state of Kalantan, the northern most state south of the Thai border. This has been partly because of the lack of roads into the state. The guide books describe it as more traditional and conservative than other states but this being said it is no less friendly than the other states towards visitors. Sailing along the coastline, it was easy to pick out each village or town with at least one mosque visible, the domes and minarets standing out quite easily.

The Heritage Bay Club Marina is on an island in the estuary of the Terengganu River where a lot of work is being done to make the waterway more navigable. Extensive rock walls are being built either along the banks or within the river itself to create man-made islands, and dredging is going on to pump mud from the shallow water and mud flats to fill in behind the retaining rock walls. As well, two rock groins have been built, extending out beyond the original river heads to create a safe and deep entrance. It would be interesting to return in a year or two to view the results of all this work.

While in the marina we did the usual - check-in procedures, refuelling, reprovisioning, laundry - and managed to find our way across the river in our dinghy to Chinatown where we enjoyed a couple of dinners out and also to the central markets which front the river to buy fresh provisions. The market was one of the bigger ones we have been to and had everything we needed. At both destinations, we were able to tie our dinghy up at local ferry jetties where they were quite safe while unattended.

Our 'day out' the day before we left was a trip up the river to the Crystal Mosque, so called because it is built from steel and glass. It was all part of a riverside complex called Taman Tamadun Islam (Islamic Civilisation Park). We passed the traditional boat building yard where there were two large boats which looked to be almost completed. On our return journey we passed the water police and just beyond that saw some large fishing boats which had been confiscated from illegal Thai, Indonesian and Cambodian fishermen. Some seem to have been there so long they were about to sink or had sunk. In Australia, they just would have burnt them!

Look, no sails!!